Click on the dropdown arrows to read more about each stage of this peanut sweeper project!
Idea for the Project:
My final project is a peanut crusher. A special feature this peanut crusher will have is that if peanuts start to move from the crushing space to the sides of the mortar during the crushing phase, there will be a scraper that scrapes the sides of the mortar to return the peanuts to the ideal space where the pestle will be exerting direct force.
Now that I know how to program a microcontroller, I want to see if my Arduino will be able to detect peanuts coming up the side. To do that, I will need to download and install a library called CapacitiveSensor. Capacitive sensors can be programmed to detect even the slightest interruption in the electric field in the air. For my project though, I don’t need the sensors to be that sensitive, or else, the mortar will keep on scraping the sides even when no peanuts are coming up into the space.
Therefore, it is important to classify thresholds. Even if the sides of the mortar detect peanuts, I don’t want it to be scraping with one or two peanuts stuck on the side. That is still a waste of power and energy. I want it to wait a little longer until “enough”, whatever we designate as “enough”, has accumulated before scraping the side.
Starter Code/Circuit Design:
From the Arduino project book, I found my starting point in designing a capacitive sensor.
First, I picked a YouTube video tutorial on how to make the planetary gearbox. The YouTube video tutorial that I followed is linked below:
Before jumping into making the gearbox, I decided on some things to make sure that the gears in my gearbox will turn out to be compatible.
We determined that our gear ratio = 1:6 (Gr = 1/6).
Ring gear (internal gear) will be fixed.
Earth gear (centermost spur gear) will be the driving gear (its rotation will force the other gears to rotate).
We will use a carrier to help distribute the rotational force.
Module = 2; Pressure Angle = 20 degrees
Next, I did some math to know how to design my individual gears.
The ring gear = 80 teeth (R = 80)
To determine Earth’s # of teeth, R/((1/Gr) — 1) → 16 teeth (E = 16)
To determine the teeth of the gears that orbit the Earth gear, R-E / Module → 32 teeth (P = 32)
Number of orbiting items = 3
To make sure that the gears are compatible with each other: (R+E)/(# of orbiting items) → 19; if the number is a whole number, then that means the gearboxes will turn with each other based on their number of teeth
I used the handy spur gear add-in to speed up the process of designing my gears.
There is a feature on Autodesk Fusion that allows for the creation of spur gears
Input math information for the right number of teeth
Additional information includes root fillet radius, gear thickness, and hole diameter.
The gear thickness does not matter for me much in this case because I will be laser cutting, which means the thickness of the gear is based on the thickness of the material I choose to laser cut.
The hole diameter is based on what type of bolt I will want to use later on
Creating the Internal Gear
The internal gear is just the outer ring, so the hole diameter does not matter
After making the spur gear, I created a cylinder and extude cut in order to get just the shape from the edge of the cylinder to the stop of the teeth, leaving a gaping hole in the center
Creating the Earth Gear
The Earth gear has 16 teeth and includes adding a backlash of 0.5 mm and it has a hole diameter of 5 mm (since I will be using 5 mm nuts and bolts)
Creating the Orbiting Items Gear
The Orbiting Items gear has 32 teeth but the rest is the same as the Earth
Creating the Carrier
I created a circle of 10 mm diameter with the same centers as the circles with 5 mm diameter on the Earth and 3 orbiting items gears.
From each orbiting item gear, I linked two lines from the places where my 10 mm circle was the widest directly to the widest part of the 10 mm circle of the Earth Gear
My lines were not the cleanest, so I used the secant function to make sure my lines did not cross into the circles. In total, there were 6 lines
I then filet the edges where the lines connecting one orbiting item to Earth intersected with lines from another orbiting item.
I then laser-cut my prototype onto a mat board. I used 5 mm x 20 bolts and 5 mm lock nuts. My initial impressions are that this is so cool. This is my first-ever GEARBOX creation! Upon inspection, however, the flimsy cardboard makes it so that the gears keep on catching on each others’ teeth. So… we will now print on wood.
I laser cut on a 6 mm general medium wood piece. The pieces fit much better together and the gears turn without catching. However, because of the head of the bolts attaching the carrier to the various gears, the inner gears do not fit with the thickness of the ring gear. The inner gears are currently at a taller height than the ring gear, making it hard for the inner gears to gain traction on the ring gear since half of it is not attached to the ring gear. To troubleshoot this problem, we printed another ring gear from a piece of wood of similar properties.
I then glued the two ring gears together with wood glue, but no matter how I tried to align the pieces, they were not quite aligned. The wood glue also filled in spaces in the teeth crevices, preventing the orbiting items gears from being able to rotate effectively. The glue was occupying the spot. Therefore, I found a thicker piece of wood, 12 mm to make a 12 mm with just one piece of wood instead of two pieces.
Attaching the Motor:
Brainstorming on how to attach the motor
The motor needs to be part of the kinetic sculpture, but currently I do not have space for it in my design. There is a bolt in the center of the carrier connected to the Earth gear, so I can’t just glue my motor onto the center.
After consulting with Bobby, we decided that I should create a spacer that will be attached to the carrier in the center. This spacer has a hole in the middle to let the bolt from the carrier come through.
This motor has two turning sides, but with my design, I will just be using one side. I attach a piece to the turning pieces on the motor to give the motor more surface area. This surface area is then attached to the spacer, so that when the motor turns, so does the spacer, and in doing so, the carrier turns.
I won’t be using the other rotating side of the motor, but it cannot touch the ground, so I glued an aluminum piece that lifts the motor off the ground by a few mm.
Because of the addition of the new spacer, added surface area, motor, and aluminum lifter, the gears inside the ring gear are now at a much taller height than the ring gear, so I have to balance the ring gear by supporting it with beams. Originally, I used mat board material, but the table legs that I created were not stable enough.
Nathan suggested to let the surface area attached to the motor be the earth gear, so I just had to flip my gears so that the carrier is facing upwards. Before, the carrier was facing downward.
Nathan also suggested to make my “table” by scoring a long rectangle, which will allow for it to bend along the circumference of my circular contraption.
Test Run with Peanuts:
The peanuts are still getting shipped to me via Amazon :-) But when it comes, it will be a peanuts galore
Connecting the Orbiting Items to the Gearbox:
I found 2 balls in the classroom to use as my Earth and Moon.
To get my rocket and satellite, I searched up their PNGs on the internet → opened Inkscape → Path → Trace BitMap → Apply → Delete the original image → Save As → DXF 14 → Go onto Autodesk Fusion → Insert → From DXF → Select appropriate file
I laser cut my images, cutting the edges, and scoring the rest.
I used these bendable gold poles to nest my orbiting items on them and hot gluing the base onto the top of the spinning gears.